In the "Made in Kiev" column, Life around talks about people who, contrary to the conventional wisdom that everything is being done in China, create local brands and start production here in their city. In this issue - the story of the architect Svetislav Grbich and student-economist Nastya Glotova, producing purses made of genuine leather under the Sugudesu brand.
YEAR OF FOUNDATION
Twenty years ago, Svetislav Grbich came to Kiev from Serbia. Here he received an architectural education and founded the architectural studio Sugudesu (of her recent projects - the reconstruction of the Goodwine store on Mechnikov). Since work in the studio is fraught with many limitations - customer wishes, technical and regulatory barriers - Svetislav began to look for the opportunity to create his own design truly.
The idea to launch a parallel project in which one could give complete freedom to creativity came up with the architect when he met Anastasia Glotova, a student of the Faculty of Economics, who had mastered the leather craft. It all started with a hobby: four years ago, Nastya engraved a quote from a Metallica song on her belt for herself, but a friend persuaded him to sell the belt to him. So the hobby brought the first money and pushed to create his own studio Curly Sue. Later there were private orders, work with Vosk, sasha.kanevski brands and a large souvenir project for an advertising agency. True, Nastya is going to engage in the production of accessories closely only at the end of the university: she expects that she will benefit from economic education when creating her own atelier.
A joint project Svetislav and Nastya began last year, engaged in the production of leather wallets. Svetislav took on design tasks, technical - Nastya. The joint development of the design and testing of the prototype took several months. Sewing purse - from cutting details to the final impregnation of the skin - is engaged in Nastya. The student collected several years of tools and equipment for complex technological operations. In warm times, she worked in the country, for the winter I had to turn into a workshop room in my own apartment.
The unisex Sugudesu 109 purse from two types of Italian leather opens the series: matte, natural yellow-orange, and dark wax with gloss. The size of the purse is more like a notebook: it contains notes, cards, checks, coins and even a smartphone. The price of 1,600 hryvnias is explained by the high quality of materials and painstaking manual work. Production of one copy can last 5-7 days. The model was launched into a series of 109 copies of each color.
In the near future, under the Sugudesu brand, iPad covers and simple money holders will also be released. In the long run - a complex men's briefcase for travel. Anastasia has been collecting his prototype for Svetislav for several months.
Sugudesu 109 wallet is sewn from Crazy Horse Italian leather, designed for harness and shoes for riders. It almost does not stretch, because the product retains its shape for a long time.
Through an acrylic pattern with laser-spaced holes Anastasia Marks the details and marks for every stitch. They will allow you to make a perfectly smooth seam.
Details cut out from a layer of leather with a special knife.
On the front and inside of the purse using a press make embossing with brand name and product number.
The purse is collected from individual parts. Connections first glued, and then stitch.
After assembly, insert into the purse buttons.
Last of all elastic is sewn. This part must be especially reliable. It was not possible to find decent quality gum locally produced, so they are bought for Sugudesu 109 in Italy.
Angles the purse is rounded - so they shake less and look better.
The ends are processed plant extractto keep the skin from moisture.
On the front part of the purse is applied wax finish.
Photo: Anya Garienchik